An Eco-Friendly Extraction and Purification Approach for Obtaining Active Ingredients for Cosmetics from Two Marine Brown Seaweeds

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Gager, Leslie | Connan, Solène | Cérantola, Stéphane | Petek, Sylvain | Couteau, Céline | Coiffard, Laurence | Stiger-Pouvreau, Valérie

Edité par CCSD ; MDPI -

International audience. Brown seaweeds are attracting attention due to their richness in bioactive compounds, in particular, their phlorotannins. We present here a case study of two Fucales, Ascophyllum nodosum and Halidrys siliquosa, sustainably collected, to produce active polyphenols for the cosmetics sector. Phenolic contents of crude extracts, obtained by Accelerated Solvent Extraction (ASE), were more elevated in H. siliquosa at 100.05 mg/g dry weight (DW) than in A. nodosum (29.51 mg/g DW), considering 3 cycles with cell inversion. The temperature of extraction for a high phenolic content and high associated antioxidant activities close to positive controls was 150 °C for both algae and the use of only one cycle was enough. A semi-purification process using Solid-phase Extraction (SPE) was carried out on both ASE crude extracts (one per species). The majority of phlorotannins were found in the ethanolic SPE fraction for A. nodosum and the hydroethanolic one for H. siliquosa. The SPE process allowed us to obtain more concentrated fractions of active phenolic compounds (×1.8 and 2 in A. nodosum and H. siliquosa, respectively). Results are discussed in regard to the exploitation of seaweeds in Brittany and to the research of sustainable processes to produce active natural ingredients for cosmetics.

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